Side Invisible Zipper Tutorial
Note: For the purpose of
instruction, contrast stitching, zipper and vilene have been used. Of
course, it looks even better in matching thread and notions!
For side zippers on pants, it’s recommended to reinforce the curved
hip area (from waist to just below zipper notch) with strips of interfacing approx
¾” wide or cut tear-away vilene shields (as shown above). Sew these shields on the wrong side of side seam.
For left leg with side zipper : Pin right sides together of side leg and
start to sew approx 1”-2” down from zipper notch down to hem (leaving the top
open to insert your zipper).
Press seams open. Insert a 20cm invisible zipper at the top of the pant where your opening is.
Make sure that the top of
your invisible zip (i.e. the plastic tip at the top of the zipper) sits just
past the ¼“ seam allowance at the waist. Pin in place, making sure that the
fabric is sitting right side up, facing you with the seam open. The zipper must
be face down on the fabric. Make sure to line up the
zipper coil edge with the seam allowance crease. Place pins parallel to the
zipper teeth. Note: the zipper tape
is always narrower than the seam
With an invisible zipper foot attached to your sewing machine, drop your foot down onto the zipper making sure to catch the zipper coil into the groove under the foot. This helps in turning the teeth coils out of the way so that the machine can
stitch behind the teeth. Position your needle down to start and sew zipper
carefully down from the waist to zipper notch. Note: this is why a slightly longer 20cm invisible zip is needed
for a 18cm opening. Do not sew all the way down to the bottom of the zip.
Backstitch at end.
Next, with one side of the
zipper attached, close the zipper making sure that the pant seam is clear. Make
a marking across the bottom of zipper where you finished sewing.
With zipper open and right
side of zipper facing down onto right side of fabric, position your invisible
zipper foot down at bottom of zipper at chalk mark. Note: Facing in direction towards the waist.
Remove your invisible
zipper foot and attach your regular zipper foot
left at the bottom of your zip and at the start of your side seam…
the opening. Make sure that the zipper tail is out of the way.
ends, sew up the opening making sure to back-stitch at top and bottom.
Tear away your Vilene
shields at the zipper opening et voila, your side invisible zipper is done!