Modified Ruby Dress in Pebble Washed Linen
March 7, 2016
I’d been thinking about this subtle modification for our Ruby Top/Dress pattern for a while. This pattern has such a great classic shape and lends itself to so many possibilities. Plus with the glorious warm summer weather we’ve been having in Sydney lately, I thought I’d squeeze in a summer dress for my Gabby who’s been wanting a white dress with frayed edges since seeing these inspiring styles.
I used our lovely, heavy textured China White Pebble Washed Linen for the dress and White Gauze Linen for the edging on the hemline. We definitely recommend a loose weave, lightweight linen for fraying as it’s much easier (and quicker!) to achieve the desired effect.
Here’s how I modified the pattern. I raised both front and back neckline, as well as armholes, adding 1/4″ to these areas. This was because I wanted to add an inside binding, as opposed to the exposed binding recommended for the original pattern. I used a lighter weight cotton voile for the 1 1/4” binding as the China White Pebble Washed linen was too thick for self binding.
I added a centre front and centre back seam to the pattern. The centre seams were overlocked together, pressed to one side and topstitched in place 1/4″ past the centre seamline. I also added a seam line across the back, to finish 7″ down from centre back neckline edge. To create the back opening, I simply double turned the centre back seam 1/4” and stitched in place. The back opening then lines up perfectly with the centre back seam on the dress.
I added side pockets similar to those found on our Annie Dress. The only difference is that I took some depth out of the bottom edge. The stitched in pocket adds a lovely detail to the simple dress.
To add weight and to accentuate the flare on the dress I drafted a 2.5″ wide hemline facing in the self fabric, as well cutting 3/4″ bias strips of White Gauze Linen for the fringed edge (joined at the side seams).
Similar to the way we add fringed bias edging to our Silva Shirt Jacket pattern, the bias White Gauze Linen was sewn to the edge of the hemline on the dress
I then pinned in place the edge of the hemline facing on top sandwiching the fringed bias edge in between and sewing it in place.
When the hemline facing is turned back towards the wrong side of the garment and understitched at the hemline edge, the fringed bias edge is exposed at the hemline. Lastly the top edge of the hemline facing is stitched in place on the wrong side.
To accentuate the fringed edge, I used my fingernails to separate the linen threads. I really love this detail and now have an idea to also use this around the neckline and armholes on another dress for me.