Pattern Review – altered McCalls 5094

Here finally are the details on Georgia’s dress in Osaka Sand Bloom. The pattern used was McCalls 5094 which she altered quite a bit. Here are the alterations:

Georgia cut out the size 10 in View E, but eliminated the gathers under the bust by darting them out of the tissue pattern. To create this mini dart/tuck effect on the bodice – Georgia cut out a rectangular piece of fabric large enough to fit the bodice piece in – then basted and steamed 8 tucks/darts – which are 1/4″ deep at the top 2 1/2″ long x 1″ apart – across the top of the piece of fabric. Georgia then placed the bodice pattern piece onto the tucked fabric, making sure to centre the pattern in between the two middle darts, and cut out the new bodice. To keep the bodice secure Georgia self lined the bodice piece with the self fabric – cutting out the original bodice pattern piece for the facing.

For the bodice back, Georgia pieced the centre back and side back pieces together (overlapping the seam allowances) to eliminate the bodice seam in the back, she also wanted the back to sit lower, so folded the back bodice piece at the underarm level (added seam allowance at top) and what she took off the bodice back she added to the straps. Georgia wanted narrower straps , so graded out 3/4″ to outer edge of strap ( to finish 4cm at the widest point). The waist panel is self lined and interfaced, and the edges are trimmed with Tessuti’s Orange Twill Mokuba piping and Lavender Ric-Rac (which were added one at a time!)

The length of the skirt is as the pattern but 5″ was taken off at the hem and blended back to hip, to take out fullness. Phew!…..Hope I haven’t confused anyone with the details! But it just goes to show what can be achieved with a little tweeking and adjusting of commercial patterns.

Don’t forget Georgia will be taking sewing classes at The Sew Inn , starting with beginners classes next month. To book and secure your spot call Tessuti Surry Hills 02 92113356 or email me at I’ll also be compiling an email list of anyone interested in future classes/workshops with Georgia.