My Wiksten Unfolding Jacket in Crinkle Linen
Oh you guys, this pattern. It’s the Wiksten Unfolding Jacket, and I know we’re only five days into the new season and I haven’t even worn it yet (other than to strut proudly around the house), but I’m calling it – this one’s definitely going down as one of my most worn items of this spring and then right into summer and let’s keep it going into that lovely first part of autumn too. It’s a total style keeper and I can’t see this ever, ever dating.
The pattern is available directly from the Wiksten site, in PDF only. I’d earmarked a long-stashed and much loved linen to make it up in, but then we received our new crinkle linens and this Signal Blue Crinkle Linen became The One.
The pattern comes with three length options. Being a slightly larger check (the fabric) and not being particularly tall (me), I decided on making the short version which finishes at the hip. I took my sweet time at the cutting stage, being extra careful to match up all my rows at the jacket front without being too mirror-matchy. The colour palette of this fabric is pretty neutral so it all fell into place nicely, but after playing around with some excess fabric lengths, I decided that the upper (visible, turned back) collar needed to colour/print match on both sides.
For the lining, I went with our Ghostly Grey – a silk/cotton voile. I used this for the body only, and lined the sleeves with the same main fabric. The pattern can be fully reversible (mine’s not) so if you’re planning on going down that clever path, bear it in mind when choosing your fabric. Oh the choices…
One tip if you’re making it up in a crinkle linen. Both upper collar and under collar are interfaced so make sure you use a lightweight interfacing so as not to interfere with the texture of the fabric.
The pattern is really fabulous and came together super-quick. I honestly felt like I took more time at the cutting stage than I did the sewing part. With clear and simple instructions, it’s a winning pattern for beginners and I’d highly recommend it to anyone who finds the prospect of lining a jacket a little confronting.
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What is it about this pattern? I’ve seen kimono jackets and seen lots and lots of kimono patterns but every version I see of this looks great on every person modeling, regardless of body type or fabric used. Is it the interfacing and lining? It looks great on everyone and I think I must try it out for myself!
You’re so right Helen! There’s definitely some magic in this pattern
I was just like you – as soon as I saw it released in printed format, I was in! Yours of course in this crinkle linen is the bomb 🙂 Just love it. I’ve never sewn a jacket with a lining so I appreciated you saying this pattern was perfect for someone’s first go at it. Thank you for the inspiration to get on this project!
This jacket is gorgeous! I love the fabric too.
How many metres did you use of the external fabric?
I used 2.5m
Wow! So beautiful! I wouldn’t have thought to use a crinkle linen, but it looks amazing! Thanks for sharing. Now more ideas are rolling around in my head. I have the pattern….
Absolutely beautiful! I’m wondering if you ‘sized down’ for your Wiksten?
I did Lodi. Went one size down
This looks amazing! When you were cutting out the fabric and attaching the interfacing, did you iron out the crinkles in the fabric first?
Thanks Ally! The crinkles did iron out when I fused the pieces, which is why I definitely recommend a very lightweight fusing so it can crinkle back nicely.
Hi. This probably a dumb question, but you know what they say about dumb questions, some else is probably also thinking it too! So here goes… when cutting a fabric with a crinkle, do you iron it or leave as is and cut around pattern? The reason I ask is because I’m also wondering if the fabric could loose the crinkle and the garment then can become too big?
Hi Melanie. Sorry – I did reply to this earlier but for some reason it didn’t publish. In answer to your (not dumb at all!) question, yes – do cut the fabric when crinkled as it may affect sizing otherwise.
What would you say the skill level of this pattern is? I’ve done some simple sewing but with the assistance of someone more experienced. I’d love to try this on my own, but don’t want to get in over my head… Thanks!
I’d say advanced beginner and beyond. It comes together very quickly.
how did you finish your seams on this? just the straight stitch pressed open per the instructions or did you serge or bind them in some way?
Hey Amanda. As all the seams are enclosed by the lining, I just followed the instructions and pressed them open
Did you change the pockets to be in seam? Or are those parch pockets? Everything is so beautifully matched, it’s hard to tell!
They’re patch. Thanks for noting Martha!
Please could I ask what size you sewed this up in? Thanks
Hi Vicky. I made the smallest size
Lisa, would be be willing to sell or share the PDF for this jacket privately? It’s been discontinued. 🙁
Thanks for reaching out Ashly. I would definitely recommend taking a look at Ready To Sew’s Pekka Jacket for a similar style.
Hello Lisa,
This is one of my favourite versions of this pattern. I’ve been stalking it for the last year, wondering how I can get it (being discontinued). Any advice? I’ve considered contacting local (AUS) sewing bloggers, who’ve made it, to buy a PDF copy from them but I’m not sure how it works (if it can be sold on). I can’t find it for sale anywhere. Hoping for any help..
Cass
Hi Cass. Yep, such a pity it’s OP as it’s incredibly timeless. For something similar, have you checked out the Pekka Jacket from Ready To Sew?
Thank you for replying! It’s great to get recommendations 😊