Pattern Review – Vintage McCall’s 9758

We went to a wedding this weekend. It was a feast of good food, good wine, good music and big love in glorious surrounds with all of those vital ingredients, in abundance, that make up such a happy occasion. More of that!

Wedding invitations are fewer and farther apart these days and so (of course) I made a dress. The pattern is a vintage one from 1969, McCalls 9758. I made up view C (not the wedding dress because that would just be weird) with the view A neckline. It was purchased a while back on Etsy and there are quite a few floating around there now (and eBay too) if it takes your fancy.

Since launching this year’s Tessuti Awards, I’d had my eye on our Phantom Black fabric and this pattern was the perfect project for it. With princess seams at the front and darts in the back, the design is very much about the fit and form so the taffeta worked perfectly to achieve both of those. There were some adjustments needed in the bodice to get a more moulded fit and that included extending the back darts and raising the waistline.

The skirt comes in three sections and the front piece is cut in one with the bodice front, then gathered at
the waistline to side front and back bodice.

I discussed lining options with Vikki and went with her suggestion of making two dresses and joining them at the neckline.

I chose a complete fabric contrast for the inside, a vintage-inspired cotton voile – Goddess of Flowers – that is everything the outside isn’t.

I attached the lining to the zip by machine, my first time doing so, and OH MY GOD what a time-saver THAT turned out to be!! it turned out a treat.

As I often say to customers, a fabulous lining is like a lovely little secret between you and your garment and if someone else gets a glimpse of it, well aren’t they lucky?

Much as I love the sleeve featured on the pattern (super-slim, THREE darts and a zip closure at the wrist) I decided on a short lace one. I chose this lace (available in Melb only) because of it’s ridiculously beautiful scallop edge. My original plan was to have it sitting at elbow length but it just didn’t work so I settled on a cap sleeve, tracing the corresponding pattern piece from this Burda top.

There was a bit of time and planning that happened here but it was well worth the effort. The process of making this dress was the very reason I took up classes last year and I learnt a hell of a lot about fit and modification which has always been a bit of a grey area in my sewing life. As
to the style, I am very much in love with the side gathering and plan
on making a similar version in far less fitted, more
casual and tunic-y style for the warmer months that are hopefully not too far away,