NEW Tutorial: Attaching and Joining Double Fold Bias Binding

January 28, 2015

Back in Jan 2013 we published this tutorial showing you how to sew and join together double fold bias binding. We use this binding a-plenty in our patterns and this method has served us (and hopefully you!) well for both armholes and necklines….until now! Here is our NEW tutorial showing a different and – we think – much, MUCH easier method on attaching and joining double fold binding. Are you ready?

 

IMPORTANT: Cut your bias binding strip ends at 45 degree angles and ensure that both ends are cut in the SAME direction. Note: bindings are cut longer so you will need to check measure bindings around armholes before cutting off any excess.

Press binding in half lengthways (wrong sides together), taking care not to stretch when pressing and making sure raw edges are flush. Note: when the binding is pressed in half the angled end will be shorter on one side (see image above).

Pin raw edges of folded binding to armhole edge and starting approx 2″ away from side seam towards the front garment. This will help to avoid adding bulk to the underarm seam. Place a pin 1/2″ in from from angled cut edge (see images above).

 

(Note: As you pin bias around armhole edge, stretch the binding (ever so slightly) on the curve of the front)

Continue pinning other side of binding end to overlap pin point (1) and place a pin (2) to correspond the position. Open up folded binding at point 2 and chalk mark position on straight grain of binding and at the same angle of bias end. Cut on chalk mark 2 only.

 

Unpin angled bias ends only and unfold the binding so you join bias ends together. Take care not to twist binding ends.

Place right sides of angled ends of bias binding together,

Pin in place. Checking to overlap correctly so that when open to right side, bias is one continuous binding with centre fold and raw edges aligned.
Sew binding ends together, taking 1/4″ seam allowance.
Press seam open.
Trim off seam protruding from right side of binding raw edges.
Repress joined binding in half and repin back to armhole.
 Sew binding in place, taking 1/4″ seam allowance.
Turn binding out away from garment and understitch on binding near armhole seam, making sure to catch the seam allowance at the back.
Pin binding evenly around armholes on wrong side of garment
and edge stitch bottom edge of binding.
This will create the topstitch detail around the armhole on the right side of garment.
Hope you found this tutorial helpful. Happy binding friends!