Vogue 9253 (that one with the really low V)
I’m pretty sure, no, POSITIVE that everyone who’s reading this post has seen already seen a version or twenty of Vogue 9253. And with good reason because it’s ace. One of the things I truly love best about this pattern is that, in all the different versions I’ve seen, there seems to be a real versatility to the design. This comes not just in the way it can – like every pattern – be modified, but in the way it looks so fabulous on so many women and in such a variety of fabrics.
After making one of my Lois dresses up in this silk and falling hard for the colour, I pretty quickly settled on this ridiculously beautiful shade of our Elderberry Lave linen (other colours here). It’s deep, rich and is as much ox blood or beetroot or wine as it is the fruit for which it’s named after. Right now, it’s my hands down favourite colour.
I’m clearly stating the obvious here but when it comes to talking about this pattern, we all know that that neckline is low. Very low. Lower than Lois low and outside-my-comfort-zone low. Initially, I raised it by around 3cm but then added a couple more before I hit my happy point. To do this, I simply overlapped the front bodice pieces and stitched them like this.
A couple of things worth mentioning. There are no darts on the front bodice – just two under bust pleats on each side that hit dangerously close to nipple territory. This is probably not so much of an issue if you’re sewing up a busy print, but I’d definitely recommend making a muslin and testing this placement out if you have any concerns. I didn’t follow that path, and if I had I would’ve changed it for a dart. C(h)est la vie…
The pattern calls for binding at the neckline on the back. That’s ALL kinds of fiddly – especially where a centre back zip is required – so I switched this for a facing.
The belt is sewn into the back of the dress but it would be just as easy to sew it up as a separate and optional piece. I especially love the front tie of this design, in particular the empire line at where it sits, so I chose to leave it attached (also, avoids HIGH probability of losing it one day). I did find the ties were getting in the way when I was zipping it up/down, so I just sewed in a couple of bar tacks to sort out that minor annoyance.
Proportionally, I found the original sleeve length didn’t work for me so I finished them at elbow length.
I wanted a true midi length so I made the Version A skirt at maximum length and gave it a nice, deep 8cm hem. I particularly love the fullness in the skirt which, in spite of the casual linen, gives it a bit of glam factor. This style definitely has a dressy feel to it, but I equally love the look with casual white sneakers (have you seem Zimmermann’s latest Spring 2018 collection?)
How about you? Any plans to add 9253 to your summer sewing list?
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*SWOOOOONNNNN* I love this!!! everything about it!
And I’d like to point out the belt looks so much more prominent in a solid fabric. It really adds to the design and I don’t remember seeing it on most other versions.
Aw thanks Tasha! The belt and its higher positioning is my favourite thing about this pattern
Don’t wish to be too personal, but are you average bust size?
I’m a 12C – bust measurement is 34″ and I made a size S. Hope that helps
I eventually made this, but disappointingly found it to be very unflattering on my post-menopausal body shape, unlike everyone else it seems. I did raise the V, but it is still too low for my comfort. I am planning to add a neck band to raise it further. I also don’t like the kimono sleeves on me, so I am planning to narrow (but not shorten) them a little.
To the lady who thought the Vee was too low – why not wear a camisole underneath, the design of the dress won’t be altered!
I absolute love the colour – elderberry linen, the whole dress has the WOW factor.
Thanks Irene. It really is such a gorgeous colour.
Ooh I love both these styles and would love to buy the patterns, any tips on where I can get my hands on both Vogue 9253 and McCalls 6587 ?
Hi Gretel. The Vogue pattern is currently in print so can be purchased on their website or anywhere that sells Vogue patterns. McCalls 6587 is a vintage one so I’d keep an eye out for it on Etsy or eBay.
Oh wow! Lisa, this is SPECTACULAR! I love the colour and drape of the linen – it is so striking 😀 I’ve got one of these on the cards with some navy linen I grabbed in Brisbane that I can’t wait to start – just have to let the ankle heal first!
Heck I had summer sewing plans but they’ve just flown out the window!! This is such a stunning dress on you, but I am overly generous with chesticles and had veered away from this pattern accordingly. But in the deep fabric archives I have a perfect linen and you’ve got me all inspired for a Chrissy version in watermelon red linen. Thanks so much for the inspiration Lisa.
Hi Lisa, the patterns say I need 2.8m for 150cm width. If you could recall, for size S, how much fabric did you use? I have gorgeous fabric from you guys but I only have 2m unfortunately 🙂 Thanks.
Hi Hilda. I’m sorry but it was so long ago I don’t remember. It does have a deep hem so you might be able to save on some meterage in the skirt length (I’m 160cm). I also took off some sleeve length. Hope that helps!