The Zero Waste Dress by Birgitta Helmersson
Ever have one of those projects that – through no fault of the pattern – is just a domino effect of stuff ups that makes you question if you should even be making it? This project was mine. It felt like the sewing equivalent of the year that is 2020 and started with a cutting error on my very first snip. Then I accidentally threw out some pattern pieces that I shouldn’t have. Then I sewed the button band on incorrectly. And if you’re going to do that, why not sew the pockets on the wrong way as well. But my favourite? Sewing ALL eight buttonholes on before having to unpick every. single. one of them. On linen. And don’t even get me started on the four needles I broke when sewing on the buttons…
Yep, this dress was a JOURNEY! But hey, we all know it’s not about the journey but the DESTINATION, right? And this destination is a bloody good one.
It’s the Zero Waste Gather Dress from Birgitta Helmersson. When I first came across it on Instagram, it was love at first sight…and OMG, with jeans. As projects go, pleaaaase don’t let my bad run put you off this pattern because it’s actually and truly a very straightforward sew – really straightforward and so very, very clever. Like the Envelope Dress, the ‘pattern’ doesn’t include pattern pieces as such. What you get is piece measurements, sewing instructions and a couple of alternative hack options that include a bodice only button band and a wider, gathered sleeve. And provided you don’t make any mistakes (like I did) or modifications (like I did, with my shorter sleeves), it really truly is ‘No Waste’. MAGIC.
A couple of things I will mention. Due to my aforementioned cutting error I had to re-cut the button bands. This meant I reduced the width of my back skirt piece by 14cm. In the end, because it’s so fantastically wide and voluminous, that difference didn’t matter. The other thing to keep in mind – in the true spirit of zero waste, the button band is cut on the straight grain which means that, around the curve of a neckline, it’s not going to sit as flat as a bias (or curved) cut band would. You can see what I mean in the picture above. This really bothered me at first but I’m feeling like that had more to do with headspace I was in at the time. Because, once complete and pressed, everything worked out just fiiine.
The finished pattern does have longer sleeves but I decided to crop and cuff them at elbow length. Oh, and special mention to the fabric – our Freckles Black 100% linen.
I am hugely drawn to maximum volume dresses right now so I love this style and I particularly love wearing all that fabric. It just floats around your body and is magnificent comfort dressing.
So as August comes to an end, my sewing wants and needs are now looking towards spring. This new season feels very much needed right now and I’m excited to bust out some warm-weather makes. What have you got planned for your next season of sewing?
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Over the years I’ve had a few sewing disasters with quality fabric. It makes me feel so good to hear about others disasters. Being able to fix them is a bonus. I hope your next dress is a much happier experience!
Oh, me too Jean!
Hiya!
LOVE the dress – and so sympathise about the tribulations of your sew – am currently UN knitting a sleeve, in MOHAIR, after a similar frustratingly stupid error.
I’m curious as to the direction of the layout of the dress pieces, as I’m looking at the Red Striped Washed Linen Gauze on your website… Your spots, the plain colours and ginghams wouldn’t matter, obviously, but with a directional design of stripes it would. Are they all laid ALONG the length?
Thank you!!!
Thanks so much Karen. In answer to your question, yes – all the pieces run along the length.
Excellent, thank you!!!
Now to do my sums and decide whether I can justify buying both pattern and fabric…LOL!!
Love the way the neck band DOES stand up a bit. It adds some visual flair. Beautiful dress. You look wonderful in this.
Thanks so much Susan. It’s funny how you can obsess over some small detail before realising it’s not worth the obsession at all.
patb@usbio.net
Thank you so much for blogging about this dress! I LOVE it…bought the pattern (loving that it’s not all the pieces, taping, etc)can’t wait to pick out a fabulous fabric for myself…and am hoping that with your notes I’ll be wearing one in a snap! Thanks again!
Thanks Pat. I’m sure you’ll love it!
I became obsessed with this pattern too through your blog. Have just picked up 4m of Dorothy Draper floral fabric for $10/m and hoping it will double as a duster coat as well as dress.?
Your dress looks amazing by the way.
Thanks Trudy. I think it’ll be AMAZING as a duster!
I’m currently having a similar experience with this dress! I don’t know if my fabric was really askew or if I was just really incompetent at measuring yesterday… But I managed to cut the sleeves *so crooked* that I had to trim them down, then re-calculate the placement of the underarm notches to accommodate the new width. And I’m concerned that I’m going to run into similar issues with my other pattern pieces, but I’m trying to take it one step at a time at this point. ??♀️ I’ve been so tempted to throw in the towel a couple times, but then I see finished dresses like yours and push myself to make it work!
It’ll be worth it I’m sure Christy!
I love your version of this zero waste “big dress” as this and similar dresses are being called. I’ve seen many versions on IG using bright prints, graphics, cut offs, even tea towels and bandanas. I bought the pattern, haven’t made it yet, but will soon.