Tutorial – The Sadie Slip Dress with a bound neckline and straps

September 10, 2021

We released our Sadie Slip Dress pattern in 2016 (she’s nearly 5! *sniff*) and recently tested out this alternate method which replaces the facings and rouleau straps with a bound neckline and bound straps. We loved the result so much that we decided to share the method as a tutorial for anyone else that may want to give it a go.

Here we go…
First up, you’ll need to cut your bias strips. The bindings are cut longer than required so you’ll need to check measure bindings around neckline, armhole and desired strap length before cutting off any excess.
Cut two bias strips 3cm (1 1/4″) wide x 50cm (19 1/2″) for the front and back neckline and then cut two bias strips 3cm (1 1/4″) wide x 80cm (31 1/2″) for armhole/shoulder strap.
Attach Vilene shields to front and back neckline: Pin and sew Vilene shields (approx 1/8″) to front and back neckline edge on wrong side of fabric, close to the edge. This helps to secure the neckline and prevents it from stretching. Mark centre front/back with marking or pin.
Sew dress side seams together.
Attach binding to front and back neckline: Starting at armhole edge and with right side of binding facing (on the open and not pressed in half) to wrong side of front/back, pin binding to the neckline making sure to stretch binding slightly. Pin to finish at centre front/back marking. Note: Leave the other half of the binding loose at this stage.
 
Starting at the armhole edge, sew 1/4″ seam allowance and finish at centre front/back mark. Leave needle down into garment and lift foot to pivot at centre front/back. Before placing foot down, clip into centre front/back mark just short of staystitching line. Note: Do NOT clip into binding.
Place machine foot down. Making sure to stretch binding slightly, place binding along remainder of neckline edge. Sew 1/4″ seam allowance to finish at opposite armhole edge. Backstitch at armhole edges.
 
Tear away Vilene shield along neckline edge only (leave armhole Vilene shields at this stage).

With right side of neckline edge facing you, push seam allowance towards wrong side of binding. Meet raw binding edge to raw seam allowance edge. Turn binding towards right side of front/back, and pin in place at folded edge, just covering stitching line.

Starting at armhole edge, sew binding in place along folded edge of binding around neckline. Backstitch at beginning and end.

With right sides facing, fold front/back in half, lining up armhole edges. Pin in place. Trim excess binding at armhole edge.
Place a pin at centre front/back, lining up the pin with centre front/back fold.
On wrong side of front/back, sew straight down binding at centre front/back, stopping just before end of binding. Backstitch at beginning and end. This will create a dart on wrong side of binding and a clean, sharp V neckline on the right side.

Attach binding to armhole and create straps: With right side of binding facing wrong side of front/back (on the open and not pressed in half),  pin binding to armhole edge, make sure to stretch binding slightly. Note: Place end of binding just past underarm seam towards back and pin to neckline edge

Next, at neckline edge, measure for strap length. This can vary for each individual and depends on your measurements as well as your personal preference as to where you’d like the neckline/armhole to sit on the body. So check to see what works for you to gauge finished measurement.

Check/measure strap length by lining up neckline edge and measuring half of strap length. Double measurement to work out finished strap length. Due to the bias stretch of the binding, the shoulder strap will stretch slightly more when on the body (by approximately another 1/2″- 3/4″), so you must measure the full stretch of bias strap.

Pin rest of binding, stretching slightly as you pin around opposite armhole edge, and join ends together with a diagonal seam. Press seam open. 

Starting at neckline edge, sew 1/4″ seam allowance around armhole and finish at opposite neckline edge. Back stitch at beginning and end.

Tear away Vilene shield along armhole edge. With right side of armhole edge facing you, push seam allowance towards wrong side of binding. Trim away at seam allowance protruding past binding. 

Meet raw binding edge to raw seam allowance edge.

Turn binding towards right side of front/back and pin in place at folded edge, just covering stitching line. 

At shoulder strap, meet raw edges towards the middle, then fold in half. The straps should finish at the same width as exposed binding edge on armhole.

Starting at underarm/side seam, sew binding in place along folded edge of binding around armhole.  At neckline edge, continue to sew shoulder strap binding together along folded edge, to finish sewing binding at underarm seam where you started. Backstitch at beginning and end.

And you’re done! The fabric we’ve used below is our Dark Spotted Leopard linen.

We also made a sweet shorts and top set in our Bedford White Washed Linen which features Sadie cropped to a camisole top. For this version, we created a V at the back by transferring the front piece neckline onto the back pattern piece.

This simple binding method can also be used for our Annie Dress, as Colette blogged here.